10th September 2023
This time last month I was bemoaning the fact that it had rained and rained for days on end, now we're in early September and we're in the middle of a heat wave. These extremes in weather haven't been ideal for cut flower growing - I had a lovely crop of autumn sown hardy annual which flowered in the spring and early summer, I then lost a lot of half-hardies to slugs during the summer and this combined with the lack of sun led to a slim pickings in July and August. Now everything has picked up a pace and plants are starting to flower so hopefully we are all starting to enjoy the fruits of our labour once again,
In this Sowing & Growing Update I have focused purely on the seeds we sowed for the 2023 season (i.e. the seeds sown between August 2022 and May 2023). I will be starting a new set of Sowing & Growing Updates for the seeds we are sowing from August 2023 onwards for the 2024 season, which will be with you w/c 12.9.2023.
In the first section of this update I have included some information on maintenance of your patch and then some advice around cutting & conditioning your flowers. In the second section there's a feature on each seed that we've sown and is grouped by the month the seeds were included in our Cut Flower Patch seed boxes. For the purposes of comparison, for each plant I specify the number of weeks since sowing as I am aware that not everyone is sowing their seeds at exactly the same time. I have also indicated in which week the crop of a particular flower came to end (The Final Cut) and I removed the plants from my patch. However I have left in the information about 'When to Pick' as I know we can all be on slightly different timescales depending on when we sowed the seeds and the area of the country we live in. The photographs were taken on or around the day of writing this blog.
Maintenance
Watering
During this hot spell it is essential to keep your plants well watered. It is better to give your plants a good soak occasionally rather than little and often, as, with the latter, the water often just evaporates and doesn't reach the roots.
Water early in the morning or evening and water around the roots as this is the most efficient use of water.
For more information on watering your patch, check out this blog https://www.thecutflowerpatch.co.uk/post/top-tips-for-watering-your-cut-flower-patch
Support
Providing some form of support for your cut flower patch is important as it will need protecting from the wind and rain. However even if your patch is in a sheltered spot many of the flowers will grow very tall and the stems snap easily. Last year I left it too late to add supports to many of my plants and I promised myself I wouldn't make the same mistake this year, I've had a slightly better year in that regard but could do better. There's always next year!
Probably the most popular and effective method for supporting cut flowers is to stretch jute netting over your patch at around 45cm high, you might find this Sarah Raven video useful if this is something you are considering for your patch.
As my cut flower patch is in the front garden I want something that is more pleasing to the eye so I simply use canes and a plastic gardening ties which seems to do the trick. Sweet peas need more of a structure using either a wigwam or tepee of bamboo, hazel or willow secured tightly with twine.
Feeding
Certain flowers (I have indicated which ones alongside each entry below) will benefit from feeding every two weeks or so. A diluted liquid tomato feed or comfrey feed is ideal for cut flowers. I've got lots on comfrey growing on my allotment, in fact it's a bit of a problem, there's far too much of it, but that's another story. I made a liquid comfrey feed by stewing the leaves but it smelt revolting. So now I simply chop up some leaves and add them to planting hole.
Weeding
Yes, I'm afraid so, inevitably you will need to do some weeding.
Cutting and conditioning your flowers
Funnily enough when I first created a cut flower patch in my garden, the thing I found most difficult was cutting and harvesting the flowers. I was so use to growing flowers in the garden and watching them come and go each year, cutting them before they had reached their prime, seemed counter-intuitive. As a result I often left it too late to cut the flowers as many flowers are better cut when they are just starting to flower rather than in full bloom. However I'm over that now as I soon realised that it's pure joy to have flowers in the house that I had grown myself and, also, having enough to share with family, friends and neighbours.
When to pick
For maximum vase life some flowers are better picked before they bloom. I cut the poppy opposite when I could just see the colour of the petals peeking though and within 15 minutes of being inside and in water it had flowered.
To help to work out what to pick and when, I have added a 'When to pick' section to each flower entry below.
Our top tips for picking and conditioning cut flowers
Cut your flowers early morning or evening as they will be under less stress
After picking your flowers put them in a bucket of water. They will benefit from spending a few hours, or overnight, somewhere cool and out of sunlight
Cut long stems but leave some stem so new flowers can develop
Always cut a flower stem above a leaf joint so new growth can form
Use secateurs or flower snips to cut, and keep them clean and sharp
Enjoy every moment!
The August Seed Box - Corncockle, Cornflower, Iceland Poppy, Nigella, Larkspur
Corncockle
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: I picked my last corncockle flowers at around week 46, dug up the old plants and put them into the compost bin.
When to pick: I tend to pick corncockle when it first flowers and I cut above a leaf joint towards the base of the stem (but try not to remove the whole stem from the plant so new stems and flowers can develop). I usually cut some stems that are in flower and some that are still in bud. For general advice on cutting flowers please see the section above 'Cutting & Conditioning'.
Cornflower
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes when about 15cm tall.
Over the next month: I picked my last cornflower at around week 48, dug up the old plants and put them into the compost bin.
When to pick: Pick them when the colour starts to show on the buds. Cornflowers need to be cut constantly if you want them to flower continually. If you pick them too early the flowers may not open, if you harvest them when fully open, they will only last a few days in the vase.
Iceland Poppy
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: My Icelandic Poppies have had a bumper year, I must have picked at least 10 poppy flowers, if not more, from each plant. Reluctantly I called time on my poppies at around week 46 and pulled up the last of the plants.
When to pick: For maximum vase life pick poppies when the floral casing has started to split and the first petals are visible. If you wish you can gently pull away the casing as the bud starts to open.
Nigella
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: do not feed
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: I picked the last of the nigella and removed the plants from my cut flower patch at around week 50.
If you'd like to save some nigella seeds for planting next year collect the pods as they turn brown, leaving a bit of stalk so they can be tipped upside down making it easier for the pod to shed seeds. The pods will naturally start to split when ripe. Seeds are best stored in a paper envelope to keep them dry.
When to pick: Nigella should be picked when the petals start to unfurl.
Larkspur
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when around 10cm tall
Over the next month: After a great flowering season my larkspur came to an end and I removed the plants from my patch a few weeks ago..
When to pick: For the longest vase life pick when the lower flowers first open.
The September Seed Box - Scabiosa, Snapdragon, Ammi Majus, Calendula, Orlaya
Scabiosa - Week 52
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: My scabiosa are still flowering but they are now coming to an end, withing the next week or two I will dig up the plants and add them to my compost bin.
When to pick: Scabiosa can be picked at any stage, the flower buds look great in a floral arrangement but please be aware they may not fully open if picked at this stage.
Snapdragon (Rocket Mixed)- Week 52
Classification: half-hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: I've been cutting dozens and dozens of lovely tall snapdraons for several weeks now but I can see the crop is coming to an end. I suspect that by the end of September they will be over and I will remove them from my patch.
When to pick; When two thirds of the flowers are open.
Ammi Majus
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: I picked the last of the ammi majus this week, they definitely earned their space in my patch this year providing lots of fillers for the vase.
When to pick: When one third of the flowers on an umbel are open.
Calendula
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, when they reach around 10cm tall
Over the next month: I pulled up the last of my calendula at around week 45 but my goodness they were another flower that more than earned their space in my cut flower patch.
When to pick: When they start to bloom and continue to pick the flowers constantly and they will bloom for months.
Orlaya
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: Orlaya is the only sown hardy-annual that has disappointed this year, not many flowers and those that I have harvested have had a short vase life. I probably only managed to cut a handful of stems before all 3 my orlaya plants died. I lifted the plants from my patch at week 43.
When to pick: Pick stems when they are fully open but before there is any sign of pollen drop. Avoid picking underdeveloped buds because they will most likely wilt after picking.
The October Seed Box - Sweet Pea Tango, Sweet Pea Mammoth, Achillea, Lavatera, Cerinthe
Sweet Pea, Tango
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes sweet peas are hungry plants.
Pinch out: pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: I've had a great sweet pea year but I called time on my Tangos at around week 45.
If you want to save some sweet pea seeds for sowing this autumn or next spring wait until the seeds reach full maturity and the pods will turn a light brown. Pick the pods at this point, bring them indoors and allow them to dry for around a week. You’ll notice the pods starting to pull open at the seams. Encourage this by running your nail along the seams, and gently press the pods’ contents into a container. Alternatively, you can place the pods in a paper bag, seal the bag tightly, and put it in a warm place, such as a windowsill. After a couple days, shake the paper bag to break open the pods and release the seeds. Do this once a day for about seven days until all have been released. Place the seeds in an envelope and store them in a cool place until you are ready to sow them.
When to pick: Pick sweet peas when the flower is just about to open, and please remember, the more you pick the more you get.
Sweet Pea, Mammoth
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, with a liquid tomato feed
Pinch out: pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: These sweet peas have been amazing, I cut them everyday for weeks on end. I finally decided to pull them up at around week 43.
If you want to save some sweet pea seeds for sowing this autumn or next spring wait until the seeds reach full maturity and the pods will turn a light brown. Pick the pods at this point, bring them indoors and allow them to dry for around a week. You’ll notice the pods starting to pull open at the seams. Encourage this by running your nail along the seams, and gently press the pods’ contents into a container. Alternatively, you can place the pods in a paper bag, seal the bag tightly, and put it in a warm place, such as a windowsill. After a couple days, shake the paper bag to break open the pods and release the seeds. Do this once a day for about seven days until all have been released. Place the seeds in an envelope and store them in a cool place until you are ready to sow them.
When to pick: Pick sweet peas when the flower is just about to open, and please remember, the more you pick the more you get.
Achillea - Week 48
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I keep thinking the achillea has finished flowering but it keeps surprising me and everyday few days or so I am cutting some for my arrangements, it makes a great vase filler.
When to pick: Achillea should be harvested throughout the summer at the height of flowering. They have lovely long straight stems and work well in tall vases.
Lavatera
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed once a month
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: My lavatera has been an absolute joy, with lovely trumpet shaped flowers in white and pink. I was sad to pull up the plants at week 40, but it was time,
When to pick: When the flowers are just open.
Cerinthe
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed once a month
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I called time on my cerinthe plants around week 36 and removed the plants from my cut flower patch.
When to pick: When the purple flowers start to form. I've noticed that it can sometimes flop after cutting, but revives when put in water. It's one that I would definitely cut in the morning or evening when it's not too warm.
The November Seed Box - Godetia, Florists' Dill, Wild Carrot, Aquilegia, Astrantia
Godetia
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, when around 10cm tall
Over the next month: I pulled up the godetia plants at around week 34, they tend to have a short season but are worth it.
When to pick: When the first few flowers on each stem begin to open.
Florist's Dill
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I've been disappointed with my florist's dill, although I've cut a dozen or so stems, my 3 plants have now all died and I removed them from my patch at around week 35.
When to pick: Start to pick when around one third of the umbels are open.
Wild Carrot
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the month: Hmm, like the florist's dill, my wild carrot has been disappointing, very few stems and very few flowers. I hope you have had more luck than me. Again I dug up the plants and put them in the compost at week 35.
When to pick: When the tiny flowers start to open
Aquilegia - Week 44
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: My aquilegia is growing rapidly, however I am not sure that I'll get any flowers this year, but as aquilegia is a hardy perennial I can leave it in the patch over the winter and will hope for flowers next year.
When to pick: As soon as the flowers start to appear
Astrantia - Week 44
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: Oh dear, these still aren't looking too happy, again I am not 100% sure why. I've planted them in a sunny spot but they would probably do better in partial shade. I'll give them a little longer and see if they perk up a bit. However I doubt that I'll get any flowers this year, but as astrantia is a hardy perennial I can always leave it in the patch over the winter and will hope for flowers next year.
When to pick: As soon as the flowers start to appear
The December Seed Box - Corn Marigold, Bergamot, Delphinium, Viola, Snapdragon (Appleblossom)
Corn Marigold
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: My corn marigold just kept flowering for weeks and weeks however the plants were starting to get untidy and were sprawling over the patch so reluctantly I removed them from my patch at around week 43.
When to pick: When they start to bloom.
Bergamot - Week 33
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: Still growing but there's still no sign of it flowering, am hoping that this sun might encourage a few flowers to show themselves.
Delphinium
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: The one delphinium that germinated has not survived, it's definitely a plant I struggle to grow. Hope you've had more success that me!
When to pick: When most of the flowers are open.
Viola
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: an occasional liquid feed
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I'll dig up the violas this week as it looks like the flowers are coming to an end. Although my violas have produced lots of flowers the stems have been very short and not suitable for cutting, despite the fact that this variety is supposed to make a good cut flower. Disappointing in that regard.
When to pick: At their peak
Snapdragon (Appleblossom) - Week 34
Classification: half-hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: Again these snapdragons have really earnt their space in my patch, I have cut lots and lots, I love them. However I think they are coming to an end now and I will most likely dig them up within the next few weeks.
When to pick; When one two thirds of the flowers are open.
The February Seed Box - Zinna, Ageratum, Amaranthus
Zinnia - Week 29
Classification: half-hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed once flowering
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: Although I have cut a fair few zinnias the crop has not been prolific, the slugs tucked into the foliage during the rainy spell, I don't think that has helped. Also during the rainy months I didn't feed them as frequently, I am sure I could do better next year.
When to pick: Pick when the petals are completely unfurled and the stems are stiff.
Ageratum
Classification: half-hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the top 2.5cm when the plant has five true leaves
Over the next: Two sowings of ageratum and neither have survived. Hope you've had more success than me.
When to pick: When the flower spikes are three quarters open
Amaranthus
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I'm not sure what happened but I planted out my amaranthus plants (admittedly they were small), went away for a few days and when I returned they'd disappeared. Again, I hope you have had more success than me.
When to pick: When the colour forms on the tassels and the tiny flowers are around three quarters open.
The March Seed Box - Dahlia (Double Decorative Hybrid), Sunflower, Gypsophila
Dahlia (double decorative hybrid) - Week 25
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, use a diluted tomato feed
Pinch out: when around 40cm tall to encourage bushier shapes.
Over the next month: Am so pleased that two of my Double Decorative dahlia plants survived the slug onslaught in July and August, so although I only have the two plants I am cutting 2 or 3 stems every other day.
When to pick: Cut dahlias that are open or nearly open because the buds will not open once cut. Try to make a cut above a set of leaf nodes and side buds as new shoots will grow from these nodes.
Sunflower - Week 25
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, use a diluted tomato feed
Pinch out: yes, when around 20cm tall
Over the next month: Funnily enough the sunflowers are loving the sun! I have six sunflower plants in my patch and am cutting a round 5 to 6 flowers every other day, and there's still lots more to come.
When to pick: As the petals start to unfurl.
Gypsophila
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, use a diluted tomato feed
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: 2 sowings of gypsophila and both have been eaten by slugs, I hope you've had more success than me!
When to pick: when half of the flowers are open.
The April Seed Box - Dahlia (Bishop's Children), Rudbeckia, Cosmos (Purity)
Dahlia (Bishop's Children) - Week 23
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, use a diluted tomato feed
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: So far I have had only one flower on my Bishop's Children dahlias but there's plenty of buds so am expecting more very soon.
When to pick: Cut dahlias that are open or nearly open because the buds will not open once cut. Try to make a cut above a set of leaf nodes and side buds as new shoots will grow from these nodes.
Cosmos (Purity) - Week 23
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: Feed cosmos in pots with a liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks throughout the summer. There’s no need to feed cosmos growing in your cut flower patch.
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: Hmm, I am a little disappointed with this variety of cosmos (Purity) compared to Cansystripe (see May section below) , it seems to be struggling a little, and isn't very bushy, I wonder if I didn't pinch it out vigorously enough in the early growing stages,
When to pick: When the petals start to unfurl
Rudbeckia
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: If your garden soil is light and sandy, feed your Rudbeckia plants in spring when they start to come into growth with a general-purpose fertiliser.
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: My rudbeckia plants were struggling and I am afraid I lost the last of mine before they flowered, again I hope you have had more success than me.
When to pick: When the flowers are just starting to open
The May Seed Box - Cosmos (Candystripe), Aster, Statice
Cosmos (Candystripe) - Week 19
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: Feed cosmos in pots with a liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks throughout the summer. There’s no need to feed cosmos growing in your cut flower patch.
Pinch out: yes, when the plant is about 15cm tall
Over the next month: Compared to Purity these are looking great, and I have been cutting them on a regular basis. A couple of the plants don't look like they aren't going to flower, they are in full sun so that's not the issue, although I haven't fed them I am wondering if my soil is too nutrient rich which promotes foliage growth without flowers. Am going to test my soil to find out.
When to pick: When the petals start to unfurl
Aster - Week 19
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, when the plant is about 15cm tall
Over the next month: My asters are on the verge of flowering, will hopefully be picking them in the forthcoming week.
When to pick: Harvest when the flowers are around half way open
Statice - Week 19
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: My statice are looking strong and healthy, again I think I will be starting to cut these in the next week or so.
When to pick: harvest when all the flowers on a stem have appeared
That covers everything for this month. Please keep in touch, feedback is always welcome.