What a month, rain, rain and more rain. I feel like this cut flower season has been one of two halves, the seeds we sowed last autumn and planted out in the spring benefitted from the good weather at the end of May and throughout June so during that period we had lots of lovely flowers to pick. Then the rain came and now the seeds we sowed this year are running late and we are still waiting for many of them to come into their own and flower . Of course the other problem that comes with rain is slugs and they have munched their way through many of my plants, including dahlias, cosmos, rudbeckia and sunflowers. Let's hope we get some sunshine soon and the second half of the cut flower season starts to be more fruitful.
In this Sowing & Growing Update I have focused purely on the seeds we sowed for the 2023 season (i.e. the seeds sown between August 2022 and May 2023). I will be starting a new set of Sowing & Growing Updates for the seeds we are sowing from August 2023 onwards for the 2024 season.
In the first section of this update I have included some information on maintenance of your patch and then some advice around cutting & conditioning your flowers. In the second section there's a feature on each seed that we've sown and is grouped by the month the seeds were included in our Cut Flower Patch seed boxes. For the purposes of comparison, for each plant I specify the number of weeks since sowing as I am aware that not everyone is sowing their seeds at exactly the same time. I have also indicated in which week the crop of a particular flower came to end (The Final Cut) and I removed the plants from my patch. However I have left in the information about 'When to Pick' as I know we can all be on slightly different timescales depending on when we sowed the seeds and the area of the country we live in. The photographs were taken on or around the day of writing this blog.
Maintenance
Support
Providing some form of support for your cut flower patch is important as it will need protecting from the wind and rain. However even if your patch is in a sheltered spot many of the flowers will grow very tall and the stems snap easily. Last year I left it too late to add supports to many of my plants and I promised myself I wouldn't make the same mistake this year, I've had a slightly better year in that regard but could do better. There's always next year!
Probably the most popular and effective method for supporting cut flowers is to stretch jute netting over your patch at around 45cm high, you might find this Sarah Raven video useful if this is something you are considering for your patch.
As my cut flower patch is in the front garden I want something that is more pleasing to the eye so I simply use canes and a plastic gardening ties which seems to do the trick. Sweet peas need more of a structure using either a wigwam or tepee of bamboo, hazel or willow secured tightly with twine.
Watering (just in case we get a dry spell)
Your plants are at their most vulnerable when they are first planted out as they grow new roots and become established. It is therefore essential to keep them well watered. It is better to give your plants a good soak occasionally rather than little and often, as, with the latter, the water often just evaporates and doesn't reach the roots.
Water early in the morning or evening and water around the roots as this is the most efficient use of water.
For more information on watering your patch, check out this blog https://www.thecutflowerpatch.co.uk/post/top-tips-for-watering-your-cut-flower-patch
Feeding
Certain flowers (I have indicated which ones alongside each entry below) will benefit from feeding every two weeks or so. A diluted liquid tomato feed or comfrey feed is ideal for cut flowers. I've got lots on comfrey growing on my allotment, in fact it's a bit of a problem, there's far too much of it, but that's another story. I made a liquid comfrey feed by stewing the leaves but it smelt revolting. So now I simply chop up some leaves and add them to planting hole.
Weeding
Yes, I'm afraid so, inevitably you will need to do some weeding.
Cutting and conditioning your flowers
Funnily enough when I first created a cut flower patch in my garden, the thing I found most difficult was cutting and harvesting the flowers. I was so use to growing flowers in the garden and watching them come and go each year, cutting them before they had reached their prime, seemed counter-intuitive. As a result I often left it too late to cut the flowers as many flowers are better cut when they are just starting to flower rather than in full bloom. However I'm over that now as I soon realised that it's pure joy to have flowers in the house that I had grown myself and, also, having enough to share with family, friends and neighbours.
When to pick
For maximum vase life some flowers are better picked before they bloom. I cut the poppy opposite when I could just see the colour of the petals peeking though and within 15 minutes of being inside and in water it had flowered.
To help to work out what to pick and when, I have added a 'When to pick' section to each flower entry below.
Our top tips for picking and conditioning cut flowers
Cut your flowers early morning or evening as they will be under less stress
After picking your flowers they will benefit from spending a few hours, or overnight, somewhere cool and out of sunlight
Cut long stems but leave some stem so new flowers can develop
Always cut a flower stem above a leaf joint so new growth can form
Use secateurs or flower snips to cut, and keep them clean and sharp
Enjoy every moment!
The August Seed Box - Corncockle, Cornflower, Iceland Poppy, Nigella, Larkspur
Corncockle
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: I picked my last corncockle flowers at around week 46, dug up the old plants and put them into the compost bin.
When to pick: I tend to pick corncockle when it first flowers and I cut above a leaf joint towards the base of the stem (but try not to remove the whole stem from the plant so new stems and flowers can develop). I usually cut some stems that are in flower and some that are still in bud. For general advice on cutting flowers please see the section above 'Cutting & Conditioning'.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further corncockle for this season. However Cut Flower Patch subscribers have received a fresh packet of corncockle seeds which we are sowing this month ready for the 2024 season.
Cornflower
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes when about 15cm tall.
Over the next month: I picked my last cornflower at around week 48, dug up the old plants and put them into the compost bin.
When to pick: Pick them when the colour starts to show on the buds. Cornflowers need to be cut constantly if you want them to flower continually. If you pick them too early the flowers may not open, if you harvest them when fully open, they will only last a few days in the vase.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any cornflower seeds for this season but in the August/September Seeds Boxes subscribers received a variety of cornflower seeds called Black Ball, which we are sowing this month.
Iceland Poppy
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: My Icelandic Poppies have had a bumper year, I must have picked at least 10 poppy flowers, if not more, from each plant. Reluctantly I called time on my poppies at around week 46 and pulled up the last of the plants.
When to pick: For maximum vase life pick poppies when the floral casing has started to split and the first petals are visible. If you wish you can gently pull away the casing as the bud starts to open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further poppy seeds this year but subscribers will be receiving fresh, new Iceland Poppies in their October/November Subscription Seed Boxes.
Nigella
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: do not feed
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: I picked the last of the nigella and removed the plants from my cut flower patch at around week 50.
If you'd like to save some nigella seeds for planting next year collect the pods as they turn brown, leaving a bit of stalk so they can be tipped upside down making it easier for the pod to shed seeds. The pods will naturally start to split when ripe. Seeds are best stored in a paper envelope to keep them dry.
When to pick: Nigella should be picked when the petals start to unfurl.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further nigella seeds this season, however a new packet of fresh nigella seeds (this time we'll be suppling a variety called Miss Jekyll) will be included in our October/November Seed Boxes ready for sowing in October..
Larkspur
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when around 10cm tall
Over the next month: After a great flowering season my larkspur came to an end and I removed the plants from my patch a few weeks ago..
When to pick: For the longest vase life pick when the lower flowers first open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's too late now to sow any larkspur for this season but we've included a lovely variety, Limelight Light Pink, in our August/September box and we'll be sowing them in September.
The September Seed Box - Scabiosa, Snapdragon, Ammi Majus, Calendula, Orlaya
Scabiosa - Week 48
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: My scabiosa are still going strong and am harvesting them most days so they'll be staying in my patch for a while longer.
When to pick: Scabiosa can be picked at any stage, the flower buds look great in a floral arrangement but please be aware they may not fully open if picked at this stage.
Second sowing/successional sowing: Again it's too late to sow any further scabiosa for this season but they'll be fresh scabiosa seeds (a variety called Fama) in the December/January box ready to sow in December.
Snapdragon (Rocket Mixed)- Week 48
Classification: half-hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: I've been cutting lovely tall snapdraons for several weeks now and they are still going strong with lots more to come.
When to pick; When two thirds of the flowers are open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's too late to sow snapdragon for this season but if you have any spare seeds you can sow them in September ready for next year. Also there will be a variety of snapdragons called Potomac White in our October/November boxes which we will be sowing together in November.
Ammi Majus
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: I picked the last of the ammi majus this week, they definitely earned their space in my patch this year providing lots of fillers for the vase.
When to pick: When one third of the flowers on an umbel are open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further ammi seeds for this season but we'll be sowing fresh seeds from our October/November boxes in October ready for next season.
Calendula
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, when they reach around 10cm tall
Over the next month: I pulled up the last of my calendula at around week 45 but my goodness they were another flower that more than earned their space in my cut flower patch.
When to pick: When they start to bloom and continue to pick the flowers constantly and they will bloom for months.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further calendula seeds for this season but we'll be sowing a new variety called Oppsy Daisy in December ready for next season.
Orlaya
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: Orlaya is the only sown hardy-annual that has disappointed this year, not many flowers and those that I have harvested have had a short vase life. I probably only managed to cut a handful of stems before all 3 my orlaya plants died. I lifted the plants from my patch at week 43.
When to pick: Pick stems when they are fully open but before there is any sign of pollen drop. Avoid picking underdeveloped buds because they will most likely wilt after picking.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further orlaya this year but if you have any spare seeds they can be direct sown or indoors from August to December. We've decided not to include orlaya seeds in next season's Cut Flower Patch Boxes, however if you'd like to sow any I can recommend buying from Chiltern Seeds, all their seeds are exceptional quality www.chilternseeds.co.uk
The October Seed Box - Sweet Pea Tango, Sweet Pea Mammoth, Achillea, Lavatera, Cerinthe
Sweet Pea, Tango - Week 44
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes sweet peas are hungry plants.
Pinch out: pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: These are looking past their best, one more cut and I'll dig them up and take them out of my patch.
If you want to save some sweet pea seeds for sowing this autumn or next spring wait until the seeds reach full maturity and the pods will turn a light brown. Pick the pods at this point, bring them indoors and allow them to dry for around a week. You’ll notice the pods starting to pull open at the seams. Encourage this by running your nail along the seams, and gently press the pods’ contents into a container. Alternatively, you can place the pods in a paper bag, seal the bag tightly, and put it in a warm place, such as a windowsill. After a couple days, shake the paper bag to break open the pods and release the seeds. Do this once a day for about seven days until all have been released. Place the seeds in an envelope and store them in a cool place until you are ready to sow them.
When to pick: Pick sweet peas when the flower is just about to open, and please remember, the more you pick the more you get.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further sweet peas this season but if you have some seeds left or you've collected some from this year's sowing you can sow them in October ready for next year. And, of course we will be putting sweet peas in our subscription boxes, in November we'll be sowing Royal Family Mixed and in December we'll be sowing Winter Elegance Mixed.
Sweet Pea, Mammoth - Week 41
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, with a liquid tomato feed
Pinch out: pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: These sweet peas have been amazing, I cut them everyday, and they still keep coming. Looking at the photo I realise I should have kept tying them on to the cane structure more frequently as they were growing because they are a little straggly now.
If you want to save some sweet pea seeds for sowing this autumn or next spring wait until the seeds reach full maturity and the pods will turn a light brown. Pick the pods at this point, bring them indoors and allow them to dry for around a week. You’ll notice the pods starting to pull open at the seams. Encourage this by running your nail along the seams, and gently press the pods’ contents into a container. Alternatively, you can place the pods in a paper bag, seal the bag tightly, and put it in a warm place, such as a windowsill. After a couple days, shake the paper bag to break open the pods and release the seeds. Do this once a day for about seven days until all have been released. Place the seeds in an envelope and store them in a cool place until you are ready to sow them.
When to pick: Pick sweet peas when the flower is just about to open, and please remember, the more you pick the more you get.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further sweet peas this season but if you have some seeds left you can sow them in October ready for next year. And, of course we will be putting sweet peas in our subscription boxes, in November we'll be sowing Royal Family Mixed and in December we'll be swing Winter Elegance Mixed.
Achillea - Week 44
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: My achillea isn't flowering as profusely as it was last month but I'll keep it going for a while longer as I am still cutting flowers for the vase a couple of times a week.
When to pick: Achillea should be harvested throughout the summer at the height of flowering. They have lovely long straight stems and work well in tall vases.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further achillea this season but the December/January Subscription Boxes will contain a lovely reddish pink variety - Cerise Queen.
Lavatera
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed once a month
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: My lavatera has been an absolute joy, with lovely trumpet shaped flowers in white and pink. I was sad to pull up the plants at week 40, but it was time,
When to pick: When the flowers are just open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further lavatera seeds this season, however subscribers have received lavatera seeds (a variety called Mont Blanc) in their August/September boxes and we'll all be sowing them together in September.
Cerinthe
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed once a month
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I called time on my cerinthe plants around week 36 and removed the plants from my cut flower patch.
When to pick: When the purple flowers start to form. I've noticed that it can sometimes flop after cutting, but revives when put in water. It's one that I would definitely cut in the morning or evening when it's not too warm.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further cerinthe seeds for this season, but can be sown again in February. Although I like cerinthe, I am not sure it quite earns its place in the slimmed down Cut Flower Patch seed selection. However if you want some cerinthe in your patch next year and don't have any of this year's seeds left over, I suggest ordering from Chiltern Seeds, always excellent quality www.chilternseeds.co.uk
The November Seed Box - Godetia, Florists' Dill, Wild Carrot, Aquilegia, Astrantia
Godetia
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, when around 10cm tall
Over the next month: I pulled up the godetia plants at around week 34, they tend to have a short season but are worth it.
When to pick: When the first few flowers on each stem begin to open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further godetia this season but if you have some seeds left you can sow them in August ready for harvesting next year.
Florist's Dill
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I've been disappointed with my florist's dill, although I've cut a dozen or so stems, my 3 plants have now all died and I removed them from my patch at around week 35.
When to pick: Start to pick when around one third of the umbels are open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: If you have any leftover florist's dill it can be direct sown up until the end of July.
Wild Carrot
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the month: Hmm, like the florist's dill, my wild carrot has been disappointing, very few stems and very few flowers. I hope you have had more luck than me. Again I dug up the plants and put them in the compost at week 35.
When to pick: When the tiny flowers start to open
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late in the season to sow any further wild carrot but can be sown again in October ready for next year.
Aquilegia - Week 40
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: Last month I was a little concerned that my aquilegia weren't going to make it but they've put on a growth spurt in the last few weeks. However I am not sure that I'll get any flowers this year, but as aquilegia is a hardy perennial I can leave it in the patch over the winter and will hope for flowers next year.
When to pick: As soon as the flowers start to appear
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further aquilegia plants for this season. As aquilegia is quite tricky to grow we wont be including any seeds, in the slimmed down Cut Flower Patch subscription boxes.
Astrantia - Week 40
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: Oh dear, these aren't looking too happy, am not 100% sure why. I've planted them in a sunny spot but they would probably do better in partial shade. I'll give them a little longer and see if they perk up a bit. However I doubt that I'll get any flowers this year, but as astrantia is a hardy perennial I can always leave it in the patch over the winter and will hope for flowers next year.
When to pick: As soon as the flowers start to appear
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow any further astrantia plants this year. As astrantia is quite tricky to grow we wont be including any seeds in future Cut Flower Patch subscription boxes.
The December Seed Box - Corn Marigold, Bergamot, Delphinium, Viola, Snapdragon (Appleblossom)
Corn Marigold - Week 29
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I had intended to dig up the corn marigold a few weeks ago but it's still producing a lot of flowers so I am now going to leave it in the patch for a while longer.
When to pick: When they start to bloom.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any corn marigold for this season. As corn marigold plants take up quite a bit of space and, as most Cut Flower Patch growers have to juggle their space to accommodate all their cut flowers, we will not be including corn marigold seeds in the next season's boxes.
Bergamot - Week 29
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: Although my bergamot is looking a lot more healthy than last month, there's still no sign of it flowering, am hoping that with some sun I might get flowers later in the month.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further bergamot seeds for this season but if you have any leftover seeds you can sow them again in December ready for next season.
Delphinium
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: The one delphinium that germinated has not survived, it's definitely a plant I struggle to grow. Hope you've had more success that me!
When to pick: When most of the flowers are open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's too late to sow any further delphinium seeds for this year but if you have spare seeds, you can sow again in September, we had planned to include delphinium seeds in the October/November seed boxes but am wondering if that needs a rethink, especially if other growers are struggling to germinate their seeds?
Viola - Week 29
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: an occasional liquid feed
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I'll dig up the violas this week as it looks like the flowers are coming to an end. Although my violas have produced lots of flowers the stems have been very short and not suitable for cutting, despite the fact that this variety is supposed to make a good cut flower. Disappointing in that regard.
When to pick: At their peak
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further viola seeds for this season. Needless to say we won't be including any viola seeds in next season's boxes but if you have any spare seeds from this year you can sow them again in March.
Snapdragon (Appleblossom) - Week 29
Classification: half-hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: I have been cutting these snapdragons every 3 days or so for the last few weeks and they are still going strong. They really earn their space in my patch.
When to pick; When one two thirds of the flowers are open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's too late to sow snapdragon for this season but if you have any spare seeds you can sow them in September ready for next year. Also there will be a variety of snapdragons called Potomac White in our October/November boxes which we will be sowing together in November.
The February Seed Box - Zinna, Ageratum, Amaranthus
Zinnia - Week 25
Classification: half-hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed once flowering
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the growing tips when they have four sets of true leaves
Over the next month: My zinnia have started to flower but they are a little sporadic, I think they need sun (don't we all) and I need to remember to feed them as it's easy to forget when you're not regularly watering your patch during these rainy days.
When to cut: Pick when the petals are completely unfurled and the stems are stiff.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It is now too late to sow zinnia for this season but we'll be including zinnia seeds in our February/March boxes.
Ageratum
Classification: half-hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed
Pinch out: yes, pinch out the top 2.5cm when the plant has five true leaves
Over the next: Two sowings of ageratum and neither have survived. Hope you've had more success than me.
When to pick: When the flower spikes are three quarters open
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further ageratum for this season .
Amaranthus
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: feed with a liquid tomato feed
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I'm not sure what happened but I planted out my amaranthus plants (admittedly they were small), went a away for a few days and when I returned they'd disappeared. Again, I hope you have had more success than me.
When to pick: When the colour forms on the tassels and the tiny flowers are around three quarters open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further amaranthus for this year but if you have any leftover seeds you can sow them again in February.
The March Seed Box - Dahlia (Double Decorative Hybrid), Sunflower, Gypsophila
Dahlia (double decorative hybrid) - Week 21
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, use a diluted tomato feed
Pinch out: when around 40cm tall to encourage bushier shapes.
Over the next month: I've lost a lot of dahlias to slugs, they've literally stripped them bare. However a few have survived and am hoping with some sun I'll be cutting for the vase before the end of the month.
When to pick: Cut dahlias that are open or nearly open because the buds will not open once cut. Try to make a cut above a set of leaf nodes and side buds as new shoots will grow from these nodes.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further dahlia seeds for this season however at the end of the flowering period I will show you how to lift and store your dahlia tubers so you can plant them again next year.
Sunflower - Week 21
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, use a diluted tomato feed
Pinch out: yes, when around 20cm tall
Over the next month: So far this season I've picked a couple of sunflowers from my patch, but again it's fairly sporadic. Sun please!
When to pick: As the petals start to unfurl.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further sunflowers for this season however if you have any spare seeds they can be sown again in February.
Gypsophila
Classification: hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, use a diluted tomato feed
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: 2 sowings of gypsophila and both have been eaten by slugs, I hope you've had more success than me!
When to pick: when half of the flowers are open.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further gypsophila seeds for this season but if you have any spare seeds they can be sown again in January.
The April Seed Box - Dahlia (Bishop's Children), Rudbeckia, Cosmos (Purity)
Dahlia (Bishop's Children) - Week 19
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: yes, use a diluted tomato feed
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: I've lost a lot of dahlias to slugs, they've literally stripped them bare. However a few have survived and am hoping with some sun I'll be cutting for the vase before the end of the month.
When to pick: Cut dahlias that are open or nearly open because the buds will not open once cut. Try to make a cut above a set of leaf nodes and side buds as new shoots will grow from these nodes.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further dahlia seeds for this season.
Cosmos (Purity) - Week 19
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: Feed cosmos in pots with a liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks throughout the summer. There’s no need to feed cosmos growing in your cut flower patch.
Pinch out: yes
Over the next month: Hmm, I am a little disappointed with this variety of cosmos (Purity) compared to Cansystripe (see May section below) , it seems to be struggling a little, and isn't very bushy, I wonder if I didn't pinch it out vigorously enough in the early growing stages,
When to pick: When the petals start to unfurl
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further cosmos seeds for this season but if you have any spare seeds you can sow them again in March.
Rudbeckia - Week 19
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: If your garden soil is light and sandy, feed your Rudbeckia plants in spring when they start to come into growth with a general-purpose fertiliser.
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: My rudbeckia plants are struggling, they are just about hanging on but as you can see they are very small. Again, I hoping with some sunshine they might perk up a little.
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further rudbeckia seeds for this season.
The May Seed Box - Cosmos (Candystripe), Aster, Statice
Cosmos (Candystripe) - Week 15
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: Feed cosmos in pots with a liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks throughout the summer. There’s no need to feed cosmos growing in your cut flower patch.
Pinch out: yes, when the plant is about 15cm tall
Over the next month: Compared to Purity these are looking great, hoping to get lots of flowers for cutting and pressing very soon,
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further cosmos seeds for this season but if you have any spare seeds you can sow them again in March.
Aster - Week 15
Classification: hardy perennial
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: yes, when the plant is about 15cm tall
Over the next month: Another plant that's been a victim to the slugs, one or two have survived so am hoping come September they'll be flowering and I'll be picking.
When to pick: Harvest when the flowers are around half way open
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further aster seeds for this season.
Statice - Week 15
Classification: half hardy annual
To feed or not to feed: not necessary
Pinch out: no
Over the next month: At last a plant that has a had a good month, comparing last month's photo to this month's, my statice is looking very robust. Hoping for flowers very soon!
When to pick: harvest when all the flowers on a stem have appeared
Second sowing/successional sowing: It's now too late to sow any further statice seeds this year, but if you have any spare seeds keep them until February when they can be sown again for harvesting later in the year.
That covers everything for this month. Please keep in touch, feedback is always welcome.